Last night our gracious hosts dropped us at KL Sentral to get the overnight train from Kuala Lumpur to Singapore. Before I detail the interesting experience, I need to tell you that we were not able to make reservations online. Although we could access the KTM (Keretapi Tranh Melayu) web site with schedules and descriptions of the various traveling options, they do not have online reservations. Our friends in KL told us that they had to wait at the train station for over an hour to make the reservations.
We opted for our own compartment with a small private bathroom. Because of this, we were given access to the first class lounge at KL Sentral before the train departed. The lounge was a no frills room with armchairs and some coffee. The good thing about the lounge was that it had internet access. When the train was in the station, about twenty minutes before departure time, we were told to go to the platform. The elevator from the lounge went directly to the train's platform.
Our "Premier Deluxe" compartment was in the very last carriage, but not too far to walk. It was interesting walking along the train seeing the various seating and sleeping options. There were basic seats, similar to airplane seating, there were sleepers with a flat bed curtained off individually, there were sleeper compartments with shared bathrooms and sleeper compartments with private bathrooms.
We found our compartment, made up with two bunk beds, one above the other. There is a very small desk and chair. With two suitcases, we had nowhere to stand. It was quite cramped. The bathroom was small and functional with a toilet, shower and small basin. The water in the faucet only came out in a trickle for some reason. The furnishing, carpet and paintwork were a bit worn and could certainly do with an upgrade.
As soon as the train pulled out of the station, we were given a basic hot meal in a plastic container of rice and some beef in a sauce. There was also a cold jello like dessert and a bottle of water each. We did not try this, as we had just come from an amazing meal with our new friends in KL at the Petroleum Club in the Petronas Towers. We were also given a really nice little kit with toothbrush, razor, ear buds, hand lotion and a shower cap.
The time by now was approaching midnight. We had been awake since very early that morning so we were extremely tired. We got into our bunk beds as soon as we could after the conductor had checked our tickets.
The train shook, rattled and swayed along the track at a good speed. I managed to get a few hours of sleep.
At about 06h45 we stopped at the Malaysian emigration and customs station. The officers boarded the train and efficiently did their duty. No problem.
Ten minutes later we stopped at the Singaporean immigration and customs centre. The process was efficient. We had to X-Ray our luggage.
The problem was that we then waited for at least 45 minutes before being allowed to re-board the train. We were due to arrive at 07h00, but it was already after 07h45!
We eventually arrived at the KTM station in Singapore just before 09h00, almost two hours late. We had a meeting at 09h30. Then we stood in a line waiting for a cab for another 40 minutes, so we arrived at our hotel at 10h00.
Would I recommend this to anyone else? Maybe if you are the adventurous type, or if you want to save money getting to Kuala Lumpur to Singapore overnight, saving the cost of a hotel room. For us it was just something we wanted to experience. I think I would much prefer doing the same journey on the Orient Express if the timing would work out. Alternatively, flying would be much more comfortable and more convenient.
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